Bicycles/Riding Tips and Safety
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[edit] Finding out about cycling
[edit] Local Information
Find a local independent bike shop that you trust. Go in and have a chat with the people and see if it is your kind of place. The staff in a good bike shop will be able to offer invaluable advice and they are mostly happy to help. Independent bike shops are recommended because their staff tend to be more passionate and knowledgeable about cycling than in most chain shops.
Many areas also have local cycling organisations, ranging from sport-oriented cycle clubs to campaigning organisations for 'transport' cyclists.
[edit] The Internet
There are many web forums offering discussion of all aspects of cycling and related issues, as well as information sites run by individuals and organisations. Links to some of these are given at the bottom of the page.
[edit] Government Information
Government agencies issue information and advice about cycling. the UK Highway Code contains a summary of road traffic laws and official 'best practice'. Whilst few cycling organisations advocate breaking the law, many see the advice elements as written by non-cyclists, and not necessarily in line with reality or cyclists' best interests.
[edit] Road positioning
Cyclists follow the same rule as motor traffic however, they can access many places automobiles can't. When riding in the road, convention says that you should ride on the curb side of the road, although it is often the case at busy intersections, large bus stops, etc. that riding along the edge of the central reservation is the safer choice, this should be down to your assessment of the safety of the situation. Avoid sticking too close to the curb. A distance of one meter from the curb to the wheels is recommended. This ensures you are a visible presence on the road, helps you avoid pedestrians that step out in to the road, keeps you out of the potholes and water in the gutter and means that other vehicles must pass you with greater care.
[edit] Road hazards
Never ride a cycle along the passenger side of a large vehicle, such as an HGV or bus. Exercise extreme care when you are passing vehicles of this type, particularly on the passenger side, if the driver decides to make a turn across your direction of travel you will be in a potentially fatal situation. According to the City of London cycling guide [1] "over half of cyclist fatalities in the central London involve left turning lorries"
When it is wet exercise extra caution. Your brakes will not work as well, so you need more space to stop in. Avoid any metal drain covers etc -when they are wet they become very slippery and can be dangerous to cyclists, especially when turning. It's a good idea to fit mudguards. They keep water and dirt out of your brakes and other delicate bits of your bike. They also keep you dramatically drier
Try to avoid potholes where you can, but if you have to ride through them stand up on the pedals and take your weight off the saddle. This will reduce the strain on the wheels, the frame and your body, and also mean you don't lose as much speed. The same technique applies to cobbled streets or particularly bad road conditions. Experienced cyclists learn to negotiate potholes and rough patches with bunny hops or through a procedure known as "getting light". Getting light is essentially a bunny hop that does not leave the ground, but results in the wheels' being relieved of most of the rider's weight. Toeclips or clip-less pedals make all varieties of bunny hop much easier.
In very slippery conditions (e.g. snow, ice, mud or wet leaves), avoid using the front brake and rely on the rear to slow down. A front wheel skid will invariably result in the bike falling over.
[edit] Maintenance
It's vital that the bicycle you rely on is in good condition. Learn to do simple jobs like lubrication and brake and gear adjustment. Clean your bike regularly. Take your bike in for a service at your bike shop at least once a year. Essential safety critical parts that you should check often are:
Wheels: Are your tires in good condition and correctly inflated? Don't ride on bald or flat tires. Are the wheel bolts tight enough to hold the wheel in place? If you have quick-release wheels check that the quick release is correctly tightened every time you ride your bike. Does the wheel run straight and true? if there are wobbles in the spinning wheel your bike shop can easily "true" them for you.
Cables: Check all your brake and gear cables for signs of rust, wear or fraying. The brake cable is one of the most important parts on a bike so make sure you keep a close check on it's condition. If your cables look worn out get your bike shop to fit new ones.
Brakes: Test the brakes before you get out on to the road. When looking at the brakes check that the brake pads are not worn out, and that they make contact with the wheel rim correctly when force is applied on the lever. Ask your bike shop to show you how to perform day to day adjustment on your brakes. See also WikiBooks article: Adjusting Brakes
Many bike shops run cycle maintenance courses. Check with the staff in your local (hopefully independent) cycle shop.
[edit] Security
Bike theft is rampant in urban centres, so if you're going to leave your bike anywhere you must assume that it will attract thieves. The usual method used by bike thieves is as follows:
- Bikes usually disappear overnight. Bikes are stolen by opportunists during the day but organised bike gangs steal bikes at night.
- Beware of strangers on bikes. Prior to an organised theft, young strangers or near-strangers will be seen observing in the area of the bikes during the daytime, perhaps on bikes themselves. Even if they are sent away it is wrong to assume that the point was won; they are casing the place for a night theft and they or others will return, usually the same night. If observers are noticed during the day, take the bikes into the house regardless of any inconvenience.
- No lock is totally safe. Any lock can be broken, buy a good lock to keep the odds in your favor. Thieves use car jacks to break d-clamp locks, and bolt cutters for chains and cables.
- Bikes are then stripped of any peculiar fixings. In fact, all of the brakes and other accessories can be removed; They are interchanged between other bikes to confuse recognition.
- The thieves sell the bikes quickly. They get comparatively low prices for bikes but in view of the low penalties imposed on their activities, they steal large numbers of items. Selling the bikes compounds the difficulty of recovery even if the items are found.
Bear in mind then, the following points:
- No cycle lock is thief proof. All you can do to protect your bike is buy time. You have to increase the risk for the thief to the point that they will not bother targeting you.
- Invest in a secure cycle lock. There are many types to choose from. The staff in the bike shop will be able to offer you the best advice. A common guide is that you should invest at least 10% of the price of your cycle in a lock. Ideally consider a lock that can fasten both wheels and the frame to a bike stand. Insurers insist on good locks and they have approved lists.
- Insure your bike. Read the policy carefully; some of these are difficult to claim on. If your bike receipt does not have all of the items on it, including the bike number, date of purchase, cost, and other items then make sure you get these or the insurance might not work. Similarly, the receipt for your bike lock is expected to be much-detailed, including its make, model, price, and serial number. No easy task; most receipts are poorly made.
- Quick release components need locked too. Wheels and saddles need locked to deter petty thieves. It might be worth investing in a light cable lock to secure your components to your frame. Two locks are also better than one because it takes the thief longer to remove them.
- Choose the place that you lock your bike up carefully. Never lock your bike up somewhere that you hope it won't be noticed - remember, no lock is thief proof, but they buy time. If the thief thinks it will take too long to remove the lock, and they might be caught then they won't attempt a theft. By locking your bike up in a quiet spot you are removing the only advantage you have. Ideally choose a designated cycle parking facility provided by the (most) municipal authorities. If not then lamp posts, fences, signs, etc provide useful locking points. Make sure you lock your bike up in busy places. There are a few major points to make about picking the object you lock your bike to:
- never lock your bike to cast iron railings! - Cast iron is brittle, so although a railing looks strong a sharp blow from a heavy hammer can shatter it in no time at all. If you're not sure find something else to lock your bike to.
- Check that the bike stand or other object is secure. Bicycle locking stands should not move. They should be as solid as a rock. Some really do just lift up out of the ground. Some fences have railings that slide right out. What ever you're locking your bike to, give it a good shake before you lock your bike to it. If it looks like it might go somewhere, choose somewhere else to lock your bike.
- When you lock your bike to a sign make sure it's a tall one. Thieves will just bend the sign up and lift your bike over the top of the post if they can. Make sure the post is too tall for them to do that
- Try not to leave your bike outside overnight anywhere. You will find that insurance policies may not cover this, even in the common area of your home. Take any bike that you value into the house. Folding bikes make this regime easier.
- Make your cycle less attractive to thieves. You can get your bicycle frame stamped with a unique number (sometimes your postcode or zip-code) and registered with the police. There are also electronic tags that identify your bike as stolen if the police find it. There are internet property registers like Immobilise.com that are used by law enforcement and bike owners to check whether or not for-sale and recovered items are already reported as stolen. Theoretically, there should be no international boundaries to internet registers, though the lack of international police liaison might prevent it.
- Some cyclists wrap the frame of their cycles in tape. Use either electrical insulating tape or "gaffer" tape to make the frame unique; this also covers the labels on an expensive frame and protects the paintwork. It is also removable, any gunk left over from the tape can be removed with degreaser. Some (particularly messengers) cover their frames in vinyl stickers. This looks cool but might not be to everybody's taste. It has the same effect as taping.
- Fitting mudguards gives a bike a slightly less racy appearance. It also helps make it less attractive to thieves.
[edit] Clothing
Cycle shops sell a wide range of clothing specifically designed for cyclists.
In the summer you'll need to wear shorts and a t-shirt. The "wicking" t-shirts sold in bike shops and mountaineering shops etc will draw the sweat away from you and help keep you dry. A light wind-cheater is handy for colder moments
In the winter you'll need breathable waterproofs - something that keeps the rain off but also lets the sweat out, normal waterproofs will just trap your sweat and make you feel damp.
Cycle shorts: Are really good for cyclists, but some don't like the look. The seams are specially placed to avoid chafing your "sensitive" regions, sometimes they have padding to soften the ride. They can be made of special wicking material to draw away sweat and keep you dry. They can be worth wearing under more conventional clothes for a more conventional look.
[edit] Visibility
It is important to be as visible as possible when cycling. It is very easy for other road users to fail to see a cyclist in the dark until it is too late.
The reflectors supplied with your bike are a legal minimum requirement (in the UK) but they will not be enough to ensure you are fully visible. Reflectors fail for myriad reasons- see Sheldon Brown's guide for a list [2]. Pedal reflectors tend to work the best, because they are in motion most of the time, resulting in a "flashing" effect. Spoke reflectors help to make you visible from side on, and like pedal reflectors are in constant motion. Despite this, A cyclist has to take responsibility for their own visibility. If the car that hits you has no headlights then your reflectors won't do anything. It is important that you fit front and rear lights. Many cyclists also attach extra lights to their clothing/helmet.
Despite the problems with bike reflectors, don't be tempted to remove them, They're an important back up. Many cyclists attach extra reflectors to their bike. Reflective tape is particularly useful as is can be wrapped around the frame, turning the surface of the bike into a reflector with out adding any unsightly bits of plastic and metal. Reflective clothing is also recommended. A wide range of reflective jackets, belts, trouser clips, vests etc is available in cycle shops. A cheap alternative can be the reflective tabards worn by road repair crews. These are available in builders merchants and should be certified to be industry safety standards.
[edit] Bells and horns
A bell or horn (or among london cycle messengers an elaborate whistle) is an essential piece of safety equipment. Use it to warn pedestrians of your approach on shared pathways, or if they have not noticed you when they are crossing the road. Ring your bell for a few seconds before going round any blind corners. If you cycle on canal towpaths ring the bell before and while going under any bridges, as the entrance to many bridges (in London for example) is obscured by a kink in the path. Remember that bicycles don't make any engine noise so you have to help others become aware of your presence.
[edit] Other road users
It is a sad inevitability of cycling in an urban centre that you will come in to conflict with other road users. Many regular cyclists have a long list of examples of stupidity on the part of drivers that lead to a near miss/close shave, or seemingly unwarranted aggression from frustrated motorists. The important things to remember are:
That you have as much of a right to be on the road as motorists. If they can't pass you safely they should wait.
Do not retaliate or provoke a confrontation. You're on a cycle and they are in a motor vehicle. Even an exasperated gesture can provoke some drivers into road rage, and that just makes a bad situation worse. Satisfy yourself with the fact that cycling in cities is quicker, better for your health, environmentally friendly and a social activity. If you really want to make your voice heard you can see if your city has a cyclist's association, or perhaps join a bike ride organised by the protest group Critical Mass [3]
Try to make eye contact with drivers at junctions etc, this really helps to ensure the driver has seen you. Knowing who has seen you and who hasn't lets you anticipate when someone may pull in front of you.
If there is a bike path around, use it instead for a more peaceful commute.
[edit] See Also
- Adjusting Brakes : WikiBooks article
[edit] External Links
http://www.sheldonbrown.com - A huge site with lots of safety, maintenance and fun tips, in-depth bike history categories. A rich seam of cycling information.
http://www.lcc.org.uk/ - The website of the London Cycling Campaign. Full of information for cyclists in London and beyond
http://www.resonancefm.com/ - a London radio station with a weekly bike show. 18:30 monday
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highway-code/Cyclists/index.htm - The Highway Code (UK traffic laws) as it affects cyclists
http://www.ctc.org.uk/ - CTC - "the UK's national cyclists' organisation"
http://www.bikeforums.net/ and http://www.cyclingforums.com/ - Cycle discussion websites, cover many topics and styles of writing
http://lists.topica.com/lists/urbancyclist-uk/?cid=51 - urbancyclist-uk mailing list
