Jump to content

Sewing/Fabric

From Wikibooks, open books for an open world
Variety of fabric. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton.
Variety of fabric. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton.

Terms

[edit | edit source]
Face
the right side of the fabric
Selvage
finished edges, the end point of the weft
Raw edge
unfinished edges, the end point of the warp
Grain
the direction of the nap
Nap
Bias
Warp
the vertical threads of woven fabric
Weft
the horizontal threads of woven fabric
Bolt
Sizing

Preparing Fabric

[edit | edit source]

Always wash and press all fabric before sewing with it, making sure to follow directions given on the bolt for that particular fabric. New fabric will usually shrink a certain amount and may have been treated with sizing. Washing prior to working with a fabric will also reduce the amount of dye transfer from a finished item

Marking of patterns must be done on quite flat (well-pressed) fabric, as creases will distort the shape of the chalked pattern.

Types of Fabric

[edit | edit source]

There are two groups of fabric, natural and synthetic. Synthetic fabrics are man made, while natural fabrics are either from a animal protein, like silk or wool, or a plant fiber, like cotton or linen. Fabrics can either be knit, or woven.

Natural fibers

[edit | edit source]

Natural fibers are known to be more expensive than synthetic, but can drape beautifully and keep one cool in a way that synthetic fabrics often cannot.

Cotton Muslin
[edit | edit source]

It is recommended that beginner in sewing get started with a cheap natural fiber such as cotton muslin. This is un-dyed unbleached cotton that is useful for making mock-ups and undergarments. It is a woven fabric so it has little stretch.

Cotton Jersey
[edit | edit source]

Cotton jersey is a knit fabric. It is stretchy, soft, and does not wrinkle or pucker. It is another good beginner fabric, however it can be pricy. Its often used for activewear.

Cotton Flannel
[edit | edit source]

Cotton Flannel is a warm, soft, medium weight fabric. Its weave is loosely spun. It's good for cold weather clothing.

Linen
[edit | edit source]

A type of woven fabric made out of the flax plant. Very good for keeping cool in summer.

Wool is a protein fabric made from the hair/fleece of camels, goats, alpacas and other animals. It's very good for cold weather.