Gardening/Tomato
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[edit] Growing Methods
[edit] Starting Indoors
Early tomatoes are grown by starting the plants in a greenhouse, hotbed, or in shallow boxes placed in windows. A pinch of seed sown in March in the northern hemisphere, or September in the southern hemisphere, will give all the early plants a large family can use. When the plants have reached the height of 2 or 3 inches, they should be transplanted into 3-inch flower-pots, old berry boxes, or other receptacles, and allowed to grow slowly and stocky until time to set them out, which is from May 15 on (in New York). They should be set in rows 4 or 5 feet apart, the plants being the same distance in the rows.
[edit] Support
Some support should be given to keep the fruits off the ground and to hasten the ripening. A trellis of chicken-wire can make a support, as can lath fencing. Stout stakes, with wire strung the length of the rows, afford a support as shown in pictures 2 through 4. Another method is a frame made like an inverted V, which allows the fruits to hang free; with a little attention to trimming, the light reaches the fruits and ripens them perfectly. This support is made by leaning together two lath frames. Which support is used depends on the type of tomato plant grwon, some are vinelike, and some are bush like.
[edit] Inverted tomato
Although tomatoes are typically grown up against gravity like a normal plant, it is possible to grow the plant upside down, with the force of gravity. This is accomplished by taking a normal hanging basket and drilling a hole in it. Then, a small plant is placed upside down in the basket. Water and treat as normal. The advantage of this method is it is virtually weed free and can be done in areas of limited space.
 2-Row on edge after planting - Tomatos should be planted deep to ensure they can get proper nutrients and water. |
 3-Row after 9 weeks - After planting, stakes can be driven in and wire fixed to the stakes at six inch intervals about every week. The tomatoes are then attached to the wire. |
 4-View from the front - After the tomatos reach the top of the wires, they are occasionally reattached to the top wires when they become to heavy to support themselves. |
The late fruits may be picked green and ripened on a shelf in the sun; or they will ripen if placed in a drawer.
One ounce of seed will be enough for from twelve to fifteen hundred plants. A little fertilizer in the hill will start the plants off quickly. The rot is less serious when the vines are kept off the ground and the rampant suckers are cut out. Varieties pass out and new ones come into notice, so that a list is of small permanent value.
[edit] Diseases
[edit] Tomato leaf-spot
The distinguishing character of this disease is that it begins on the lower leaves and works towards the top, killing the foliage as it goes. It is controlled with difficulty because it is carried over winter in the diseased leaves and tops that fall to the ground. When setting out plants, pinch off all the lower leaves that touch the ground; also any leaves that show suspicious-looking dead-spots. The trouble often starts in the seed-bed. Spray plants very thoroughly with bordeaux, 5-5-50, beginning as soon as the plants are set out. Stake and tie up for greater convenience in spraying. Spray under side of the leaves. Spray every week or ten days.
[edit] Malnurishment
 Diseased tomato leaf |
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