Buyers Guide For Building a Computer
From Wikibooks, the open-content textbooks collection
[edit] What to Buy? What to Buy?
If you're a fanatic about building computers and want to know what types of parts to get, this page is for you. I'm sure that you will find this page interesting and you may just want to go out, get the parts from a store, or salvage them from the junkyard. Feel free to add information on new products (especially cpu's), and don't be biased towards one brand unless you have actual evidence or personal experience, and if you have that, please mention it.
NOTE To The READER: This book supplements one other Wikibook titled, "How To Build A Computer"
[edit] Buying the right parts
[edit] For your computer
You can buy virtually everything listed below online, if you are patient enough to wait for a good deal. You can use pricewatch to look up prices on parts through various vendors. Double-check the advertisements to ensure that the item you've found is what you really want. A search for a "DVD burner" may find results such as "external enclosure for DVD burner" or "DVD burner software." Another recommended site is [1]
[edit] The Chassis (Case) and the Power Supply
NOTE: When you buy a chassis it most likely has a cooling system and a power supply already.
Decide whether you want your case to look attractive. Vendors now sell a variety of cases in aesthetically pleasing designs and colors. Aside from appearance, there is no benefit from a silver case with an acrylic window compared to a plain beige case. That being said, keep in mind that cases from higher-end gaming systems tend to have the more advanced cooling systems, like the Alienware chassis with the TerraIce cooling system. Stores like CompUSA and Best Buy, as well as local computer stores will generally have a few cases to choose from, which most of are in the $80-$100 range.
Don't forget about your power supply. A cheap power supply will work fine for many purposes, but it may not be as reliable as a more expensive one. A good power supply means that your components receive steady, even power, and a good cooling system means your components do not overheat. This tends to prolong the life of your system. If you want to buy your power supply seperately, you may want to visit an actual storefront. Your power supply must be compatible with the motherboard you are purchasing. Generally, your motherboard and power supply will conform to the ATX standard. A prime consideration for your power supply is the wattage output. A 500 watt power supply can provide electricity to more components, (and more power-hungry components) than a 250 watt power supply. Keep in mind that your power supply must have a connector for each device you intend to connect, including the motherboard! Note: Pentium 4 Processing motherboards have special connectors which usually come as ATX power supply units.
If you feel compelled to buy a case online, be aware that you may want to only get the case online and the power supply at a local store. Buying a power supply online with the case will increase the shipping and handling costs (however, total costs may vary in individual situations). In some less extreme situations, you may not need a cooling system for the case itself, but only for the computer's cpu. Still, anything that lowers the total heat in there will probably help the lifetime of the components. Know that you may regret your case if it has sharp edges or if it makes it difficult to get to a part you plan on frequently upgrading.
[edit] CPU (Central Processing Unit)
CPUs keep getting better. Most of the new computers come with a Intel Pentium 4 Processor, or an Intel Celeron D processor. If you want to be particular you could get an AMD Athlon XP processor. The Intel Celeron D gives adequate performance for an unbeatable price, but it's notorious for underperforming in comparison to Pentium 4. 64-bit processors are also now available. Essentially, these will do double the work that a 32-bit processor can in a single clock cycle. There's more to it than that, but that is a summary. They will not act like 64-bit chips without a 64-bit operating system though. AMD has since released the Sempron processor. These are cheaper than Athlons of the same model number, but also run a bit more slowly. Sempron processors for 64-bit compatible boards are essentially Athlon 64's without the 64-bit capabilities. You may need to update the BIOS of your motherboard for it to read the processor as a Sempron. Make sure your motherboard can take the processor. Always double check benchmark tests and prices before buying a processor. If you want a Power-PC processor for that freindly priced Mac, you should go to the IBM homepage, atleast those are the people who make the chips.
- UPDATE (As of May 2005) Intel has also released their 64-bit processor, with xEMT 64 extensions. Microsoft developed Windows XP x64 Edition. This will allow people to use Microsoft Windows in a 64-bit setting. Of course, Linux has worked in multiple 64-bit enviornments from almost when each 64-bit line of processors was originally started. So, it would appear that operating systems will soon support these processors to their fullest. Another 64-bit processor called the "Itanium" is also out from Intel.
Tom's Hardware Guide has many CPU reviews that will usually compare the CPU to others.
[edit] Motherboards
Most motherboards today are high powered and tend to be bundled with all of the new chassis. But, if you want a good motherboard, I suggest an ASUS motherboard or something else that you can find at your computer store. The real important thing is that everything must be compatible with the motherboard. Buy an expansion card for each function that is not included with the motherboard. Be sure to check compatibility here and the number of expansion card slots on the motherboard. If you want to be able to overclock your cpu (not always wise, especially for someone new to computers), make sure the motherboard can take it. Be sure to check the manual of the motherboard for what it can support. If you are new to this kind of thing, you probably want an AGP slot on your motherboard, for graphics and sound, and cheap ATI cards to go along with it.
[edit] RAM (Random Access Memory)
It's very tempting to buy generic brands of memory. Generally, the savings are incredible, and large amounts of fast memory will improve your performance. However, cheaper memory tends to be less reliable than higher-end memory, since the quality control measures for generic brands is often less stringent. When RAM is unreliable, it can contribute to crashes.
Your processor can calculate all it wants, but how quickly it is given information and how quickly it is retrieved will be controlled by the memory. You have to balance the need for proformance and your budget. If you are buying for performance, you want low CAS latency and the fastest speed your motherboard can take. (PC2100 memory is greater than PC1600, for example.) Be aware that if your motherboard supports dual channel you should try to buy the ram in a pair of two. The technology allows the computer to access memory at a much higher speed than if you had just bought one module (if your motherboard and the two modules support it when working together). Check the voltage of the memory as well and match it to what your motherboard supports. Again, check your motherboard manual for compatibility.
[edit] Graphics Card
The two biggest giants here are ATI and NVidia. They both will tend to release "families" with similar new technology that usually consist of cheap and lower quality, moderate, and expensive with higher quality. Check your motherboard to see what expansion slots it has for these cards. The video included on the motherboard is usually sufficient for most tasks except gaming and video-related work. AGP (Advanced Graphics Port) has been around for a while. It runs at 2x, 4x, and 8x (1x is the speed of a PCI slot, which is usually what most of your expansion slots will be). PCI Express runs at 16x. What ever you are doing with your computer will determine how much video memory you need. Try to go a bit heavy on that. Reviews are availible at http://www.tomshardware.com about graphics cards as well. Some families of cards from either company are better than others. Video cards not from a well-known company may or may not be easy to research as far as how well they function, and are more likely to lack features like a GPU (Graphics Processing Unit, which takes some load off of the CPU and only does graphics). This is another one of those products that should be heavily searched for information about reviews. Note to reader: We have recommended Ati and nVidia, because the lack of speed and performance of an Intel based Graphics Card (ex. Extreme Graphics, Extreme Graphics 2 etc.)
[edit] Hard Drive
There are two basic types of hard drives, IDE hard drives, and the faster and newer SATA drives (There are other types, namely SCSI and external drives, which are mentioned later). I still recommend the IDE hard drives, but if your hard drive supports SATA, you probably want to find a compatible motherboard. Most hard drives now are 40GB and up to about 500GB. Go heavy on this because you will almost always run out of space if you are constantly adding new things to your computer. If you will upgrade your computer before that happens, you can reformat the hard drive after saving important files and reuse it. I recommend three U.S. brands to you which are Western Digital, Seagate, and Maxtor. Maxtor also manufactures external HD's as well, so get one if you want more space.
[edit] CD/DVD Drives
These two drives are called optical drives. It is possible to get an inexpensive drive of good quality rather easily. As far as speed goes, 1x is the speed of the first-generation CD devices. It's generally agreed upon as around 150kBps. A 48x CD-ROM drive would then be 7200kbps. DVD-ROM drives use the same measure, except that a 1x DVD-ROM can read around 1,250kBps. The media for each of the drives usualy contain different amount of space, see below:
CD/R: 700 MB CD/RW:650 MB Formatted Audio CD/R: Approx. 48 Minutes DVD: 4.3 GB DVD/RW: 4.4 GB (And Sometimes Less) 3 1/4 Inch Floppy: 1.44 MB Zip Disk: May Vary, About 4-20 MB
If you want a burner, be aware of the types of media it can write. CD-R's are usually only recordable once. Using multisession technology, you can write to a CD-R multiple times, but you can't erase data already on a disc. CD-RW's can be erased and rewritten. DVD-R's and DVD+R's are two different standards, but neither can be erased. DVD-RW's and DVD+RW's are also two different standards but can be erased. Some dvd players may only support dvd+r/rw or dvd-r/rw, or maybe neither. Dual-layer discs follow DVD-R/RW or DVD+R/RW standards, but require special burners to be used. They can store about twice as much because it literally has two writable layers. If the drive says it works for "RW" discs, it will also work with "R" discs. I recommend getting a Mad Dog Multimedia drive if you like inexpensive stuff that has good quality. If you see a cheap one online check reviews before buying it (as you should with almost all components purchased online). Instead of using the bundled software (preferably Nero Burning ROM 5.5) I recommend you updating to version 6 ultra edition, or getting Linux which comes with burning software called K3B. You might also see a DVD-RAM drive. DVD-RAM is a very uncommon format, but it is technically superior. They use concentric tracks on the disc, instead of one long spiral, and they usually come in cartridges (which protects the disc.) They can be rewritten about 100 times more than DVD+RW or DVD-RW, can be treated the same as hard disk in your operating system, and the media is extremely durable and long-lasting. For more information, see the Wikipedia article on DVD-RAM.
[edit] Floppy Drives
I recommend that you get the 3 1/2 inch floppy drive with the built in memory card, usb 2.0, and firewire ports. If you have an old 5 1/4 drive, you can always use that if you want to access your old floppies. These days, a floppy drive is not entirely necessary. Many new computers are manufactured without a floppy drive. However, being able to boot off of a floppy disk for diagnostical purposes can be more convenient in some ways than booting off of a CD.
[edit] Sound Card And Speakers
For these I recommend sound card brands like Creative Labs. They offer the best high quality pieces of sound that you can possibly get with some Dolby Digital 5.1 Channel Surround Sound functions. You also probably want one with a Plug-and-Play plug, so that you can hook up your joystick and fool around with other devices like MIDI. For speakers always get Harman/Kardon, Altech Lansing, and Logitech because they make the highest quality brands that are at an affordable low price. Always make sure your model has a subwoofer. However, if you don't want to shell out the money for a nice sound system, and are satisfied without 5.1 surround sound and a subwoofer, you can pretty much pick up any cheap sound card that will be able to plug into one of the expansion slots on your motherboard and some 2-channel speakers. Be aware that sound is better as you get better equipment. Sometimes sound capabilites included on your motherboard are more than adequate. You can get some speakers from companies like Logitech, Altech Lansing, Sony etc.
[edit] Monitor
Try to get a 17" LCD screen. High end companies like Apple or Samsung are good. Epson also sells high quality screens. 20" widescreen LCD screens, made by Dell, offer a much better amount of space with a significantly lower price. These are very good screens to consider, as well. A good LCD screen will be crisp and clear, and may be easier on your eyes.
Many people recommend CRT screens, which are sold at lower costs for the equivalent size and resolution. You have to buy according to your needs. If you have a small amount of space, opt for the flat panel. Flat panel displays are not always visible from certain angles, or look odd from others. Realize that flat panel and flat screen are different things. Flat-screen only means the surface of the viewing surface is flat, as opposed to flat panel screens which are only an inch or so thick. One of the big factors will be cost. If you have a low budget, and can deal with the extra clutter, go for CRT so you can fit other things into your budget. IMPORTANT NOTE: (As of 2006, new DLP [Digital Light Processing] technology has become available. If you want higher quality you could buy a DLP tv and hook your computer up to it, through a cord or presentation device.) Some sellers of adapters for this purpose are ATI and generic brands.
[edit] Keyboard And Mouse
Try to buy the Logitech and Microsoft brands because they don't break down as easily and Logitech has the fingerprinter and I/O pen device, for writing hand written notes. Microsoft's devices are much simpler and have also a wide range of possibilities. Again, if this is just a cheap computer, a generic mouse and keyboard may be fine. Optical mice don't need to be cleaned out. Be aware that laser-based optical mice are being made availible, and while it may be more accurate, do you really want to put a laser into the hands of someone who doesn't understand that it can damage one's retina and in turn, eyesight? Always build the computer to the purpose.
[edit] Printer/Scanner
If you like the combos you probably want HP. Most Epson printers break down too quickly and the print heads are installed on the cartridge making dry ink a reality. Epson printers also have protection against people reusing and refilling ink cartridges.
[edit] Dialup Modems
If you are using a broadband Internet connection, and have no interest in using your computer for voicemail, faxing, or dial-up communications (like BBSing), then you do not need a modem. Today, almost all modem users are using them for dial-up Internet access. Most modems now are 56k speed modems. It is advisable to get a 56k card to experience the fastest connection speeds your ISP (Internet Service Provider) can provide. Two predominant standards exist: v.90 and v.92. The difference is that v.92 has some extra features that allow you to stop your internet connection temporarily and recieve a call. However, you need call waiting and an ISP that supports this. Most generic modems are fine, how ever expect to pay more for a v.92 modem. Mac also has a new USB connectable modem with polycarbonate plastic, so it won't break, that you can hook up to your computer.
[edit] Operating Systems
See A Neutral Look at Operating Systems.
[edit] External Links
- the Computer Components wiki has some buying tips.
- Tom's Hardware Guide has many CPU reviews.
- Price Watch has many advertisements for online stores
