Bagpipe Maintenance

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The bagpipes are a woodwind instrument, and with all woodwinds, they are affected by the environment in which they are stored and played in. This results in many problems with the care and maintenance of the bagpipes.

Contents

[edit] Wood maintenance

A woodwind instrument, being made of wood, expands and contracts with the rising and lowering of humidity. This creates the problem of joints involving wood becoming loose, creating hazards such as the chanter falling out. If the wood is allowed to dry out, the wood can crack. To prevent this, the wood should be oiled every six months or at the very least once a year. In drier, hotter climates, bagpipes should be oiled every two weeks to maintain optimum performance. After oiling, the pipes should be left alone to dry before re-assembling. To oil bagpipes, there are a variety of options available to use.

  • Olive oil
  • Neatsfoot oil
  • Hundreds of other commercial products available at specialty stores and websites

[edit] Hemping

Hemping is the process of coating a joint with hemp and bee's wax. In order for bagpipes to perform well, the joints must be properly hemped so the bagpipes can be tuned and so that as little air as possible escapes from leaky joints. It must be remembered that over hemping joints can cause more damage, by cracking a joint, than under hemping. DO NOT OVER HEMP. Once a year, all joints on the bagpipes should be re-hemped. In hemping a joint, first a strand of hemp approximatively six inches should be coated in bee's wax. The strand is then evenly wrapped around the male part of the joint until the desired thickness is reached. Once this is obtained, a final coating of bee's wax should be applied in order to keep the hemp from unwrapping. Bee's wax, hemp, and even pre-waxed hemp, is available from many bagpipe supply stores.

[edit] Seasoning the bag

Only natural bags need seasoning. DO NOT SEASON A SYNTHETIC BAG. A bag only needs seasoning when the stitching begins to leak. If a bag is over seasoned, the seasoning creates a residue that clogs the holes to the drones and chanter and the drones and chanter themselves become clogged. To season the bag, a commercial product has directions on it. Basically, the same process is used for all product. First the bag must have all but one stock sealed with the use of a cork, and the drones, chanter, and the blowpipe removed. Next the seasoning should be heated in a saucepan and poured into the bag through the open stock. The seasoning should then be worked in. Allow the bag, filled with seasoning, to sit overnight. Lastly the seasoning should be removed from the bag and the drones, chanter, and blowpipe replaced. For sanitary reasons, a sheepskin bag should only be used for about three years, and a hide bag for approximately five years.

Synthetic bags are relatively easy to care for. The main thing is to keep the bag dry whenever possible. When not playing, the zipper should be left open and the water trap should be cleaned often. Proper drying of the synthetic bag can help it last longer than if it was allowed to stay moist.

[edit] Reed Manipulation

Reed manipulation is the process of bending, cutting, or in any other way altering the reed in order to produce a desired affect. Only those who are very experienced should cut or shave a reed. Before altering a reed, it is very important to look for other causes of a problem, such as dirt and gunk built up inside the chanter. The best way to learn how to properly manipulate a reed is to learn from a well seasoned professional. Learning the art of reed manipulation will cost you many reeds before you finally master it.


Possible Solutions

Reed too hard

             - Gently squeeze lips of blade
             - Lightly sandpaper or scrape blades above sound box
             - With a pliers gently close staple

Reed too weak

             - Open reed with a mandrel
             - Snip a tiny amount off the lips of the blades
             - Dispose of the reed and get a new one

Top Hand Too Sharp

                  - Raise reed in reed seat
                  - Sandpaper or scrape the upper part of the blades
                   (not the lips)

Top Hand Too Flat

                  - Seat reed further into chanter
                  - As a last resort, snip a tiny amount off the lips of  
                    the blades.

Individual Note Flat

                     - Use a small file or very sharp scalpel to
                       undercut the top of the hole. DO NOT MANIPULATE
                       THE CHANTER UNTIL YOU HAVE EXHAUSTED EVERY OTHER
                       POSSIBLE OPTION

Individual Note Sharp

                     - Apply tape to the top of whole

Dull Sounding Reed

                  - Reed may have become dry, so moisten either by
                    blowing into it for a period of time for a slightly 
                    dry reed, or soak the reed in water and allow it to
                    dry naturally
                  - Lightly sand the lips of the blades (This will
                    sharpen the top notes)
                  - Reed may just be bad, toss

Squeaky Reed

            - Try remedy for weak reed
            - Reed may just be bad, toss

Reed Choking

            - Reed may be too strong
            - Reed may be dry
            - Check for possible leeks
            - Could be a bad chanter or incompatible reed

Double Toning F

               - Carefully squeeze sound box until you feel the reed
                 give a little. You may need to perform the squeeze a
                 few times but the problem should disappear as the reed
                 comes down in strength

Scratchy High A

               - Wait until you have played the reed for a couple of
                 hours, and if the problem continues, try using very 
                 fine sandpaper to sand the tops of the lips

[edit] External Links

  • "Bagpipe Care and Maintenance" [1]
  • "Care and Maintenance of Bagpipes" [2]